Tuesday-Wednesday-Thursday

Today (Thursday), I'm relaxing in front of a sun-filled French door; allowing my soul to catch up with my body. I'm at rest; ignoring the magnetic draw of Paris. 

Look who came to visit. 

Tuesday.

We walked briskly to the local bus stop, taking us to the RER train 🚂 Marne-la-Vallée--Chessy. Amazingly there are blooming roses along our pathway. 

There are always buskers on the RER trains. Most claim to be Syrian refugees. Who knows? My solution is to give to one. There's no way to validate any claims, and the giving is more about keeping my heart open than the coins. 

Today we choose to walk along Canal Saint-Martin; and because the canal is underground from Bastille to Republique, we take time to explore the area around Bastille before taking the Metro to Republique. We walk along enjoying the canal, the iron bridges, the locks. Eventually, we run across Chez Prune, a recommended café. 

This café makes a point of being bedraggled, seedy. Very self-consciously appealing to local BOBOs (hipsters). The food is good, portions huge. While Chez Prune might be the definition of "a dive" it's very clean.

As it's a chilly cold day (I chose to leave my gloves back in my suitcase.), we take the Metro to Opera and tour Opera Garnier. There's been much reconstruction on the Opera in all the years we've visited, and it's about time we see inside. Amazing. Stunning. Beautiful. Unimaginable. I have no appropriate words. And, when we view the Main Auditorium, 4 performers are practicing a ballet--2 women and 2 (shirtless) men. The musculature! 

Wednesday. 

We get a later start and decide to exit the RER at Chatelet--right in the middle of Les Halles. When you leave the train you realize you are several stories underground. In fact all of the mall part of Les Halles is underground. The entire ground level scene is retail mania. We're not too interested in shopping, so we wind around the under construction Les Bourse and the backside of Norte Dame. Redevelopment and reconstruction have been going on in this area since 2010 and will continue for a few more years. 

We'd decided to go to the BHV for lunch at Le Kantine on 5éme. This particular carousel sits next to the Hôtel de Ville and across from the BHV. 

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The cafe is self-service, as is this fun wine dispenser. 

I told CA that I "needed" to visit Housewares, Hardware, and Stationery. And, though we milled about for some time, we hit every one of the hotspots. 

After purchasing a few stationary items, we decide there's still enough time to walk to E. Dehillrien, the lovely chef and restaurant supply shop that is a Paris Institution.

We accomplish our small mission and after a bit of looking about, we decide we're ready to take the train back to our villa, and enjoy a pub dinner on-site. They really do burgers well. We're here for the French food, but tonight a burger seems just right.

Thursday. 

We surprise ourselves and declare today a pajama day. Our bodies are tired. We've kept a busy pace so far. It turns into a great day to read, take walks, and stare out over the pretty views outside our French doors. 

My sunset view, not very different from my morning view (above). A very good day. 

By dinner time, CA has found a local restaurant that has an excellent reputation, so we set-off in search. First, a quick grocery store stop. 

Au Bon Petit Bailly is certainly unpretentious and the Food is delicious. CA shared some of his generous serving of goat cheese toasts. You can almost see the salad underneath. I'm making my goat cheese toasts exactly like these in the future. Hot crispy toast with gooey goat cheese. TDF. I ate some with the vegetable soup made from the chef's wife's garden. 

Furthering my exploration into the French love of Meringues... This example was covered with Citron ice cream, smothered in whipped cream, and drizzled with Raspberry sauce.

SIGH...

Musee Renoir/Les Collettes; Cagnes-sur-Mer

FRANCE

We were here one year ago today. Such wonderful memories.

CAFÉ GOURMAND

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One of the lovely treats we discovered during November-December's visit to France was Café Gourmand--a lovely dessert of small bites arranged on a platter accompanying an espresso. We didn't get any photos, but I've found a few images on the Internet.

In a couple of weeks we will be entertaining our Small Group and we plan to compose our own Café Gourmand.

NO RESERVATIONS - PROVENCE

St. Remy de Provence. Anthony Bourdain's 2010 segment aired earlier this evening. CA and I were glued to the tube. Memories. Nostalgia. Longing. Yep, we could be some of those people who decide to buy into the dream.

Our version will more than likely continue to be a string of rentals over a period of years as we find our way through the scenic countryside, into the Medieval villages, amongst the olive groves and vineyards, along the rocky cliffs of the Mediterranean, letting the culture and the lifestyle insinuate itself into our lives and souls.

As Anthony Boudain says at the end of this segment--my paraphrase--it's the small moments, the incidental relationships, and especially the food that draws us to Provence and creates a longing to repeat and return.

PARIS: Day 3

We’re going to Luxembourg Gardens (Jardin du Luxembourg) this morning. I know, wrong season, but we’ve never been there and the sun is out and I’m betting there’s still plenty to see.

Breakfast at Angelina on Rue de Rivoli? We thought yes, but then decided non because a croissant, café, and juice is 18€… We stop, instead, at Café Rivoli Park for café crème. Dorothy, you’re not in Mougins anymore—café crème is 5€, exactly double what we paid in Provence. Hey, it’s o.k. We’re in Paris on the Rue de Rivoli looking out on the Tuileries. (Well, they’re there, you just can’t see them from here even though they are just across the street.)

PARIS: Day 2

No 5:00am alarm this morning. No alarm at all. And, it took awhile this morning for us to figure out that our windows are covered with curtains, insulated like a featherbed, that absolutely shut out all light and sound. When we creep from bed, it’s already 9:00am.

We’re developing a pattern of spending Sundays at the market in Levallois. We stumbled across this market on the first day of our first trip to Paris in December 1998, and this is the third Sunday we’ll spend there. Actually, in 1998 we left the Marriott Courtyard in Neuilly to explore our surrounds, saw a guy carrying a baguette and tried to retrace his steps. Then, we saw people carrying market bags and figured we were onto something. We eventually found the market street and the rest is history—this is our fourth visit to Paris and we’ve been on the market street of Levallois 6 or 7 times.


PARIS: Day 1

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Ugh! 5:00am just rubs me the wrong way, and today especially. I’m in no mood to leave Provence, even though I love Paris. We’ve had such a good time here, and the weather has been fantastic for the past few days. I’m enjoying the sunshine and 60˚ temps.

At least the A8 is deserted this early on a Saturday, so we reach Côte d’Azur in record time. No hassles as we turn in the rental car, check in with Air France and head to the nearest newsstand. Then, it all falls apart for me. I’ve lost the beautiful little gift bag packed with my favorite purchases. We retrace our steps: newsstand-Air France-Europcar-Air France-lost and found-newsstand-Air France-lost and found. It’s gone. I spend the rest of the time we’re in the airport eyeing everyone’s bags to see if someone has adopted my lost treasures.

I’m near tears for a bit—all the miseries of today lumped in my throat: we’re leaving Provence, we’ve had no café, I’m sleep-deprived, and I’ve carelessly lost my small bag. CA is both understanding and consoling.

DAY 21: St. Raphaël y Mougins

Corniche de l’Esterel

This is our last day in Provence, and I’m having a very sad time of it. CA is more matter-of-fact—Paris is next, after all. I have loved every minute of every day we’ve been here—21 days. There’s so much beauty. I love the sea. And, I love the way the mountains meet the sea. I love the medieval villages and the outdoor markets. I love the food and the light, fruity rosé. I love the language and the people-watching. I love the ritual of the daily baguette(s). I love BBC television and news. I love 6 pillow on my bed, and the light weight duvet. I love the balconies and terraces. I love the nooks and crannies, and narrow winding lanes.

FRANCE: Day 19, Cannes

They know us here now… We absolutely love starting our mornings in a café, and LFW fits right in. CA and I approach this day quite leisurely—he gets his email and U.S. sports update, and after a café crème I visit my first French dry cleaner (Tournamy Pressing). Just a few weeks ago I visited my first Slovak dry cleaner, but MK was there to interpret. This is a simple transaction, and we agree on Vendredi (Friday) for pick-up. In Slovakia, I paid at drop-off, but here as in the U.S. I’ll pay on Friday.

We’re taking a bus to Cannes today—for the experience (it’s just 1€) and to give CA a break from all the stressful driving. But first, LFW gets time to wander the shops of Mougins while I update the blog, and then CA and she drive up to Vieux Villages of Mougins. In 2008 this medieval village was the only one we experienced and we enjoyed it so much and took dozens of incredible photos. This trip we’ve loved Les Arcs 11th Century crumbling old city best, but when all is said and done we’re quite proud of our own restored village.

We’re bumping up against the 2-hour lunch retail shut-down, so after we gather our cameras and umbrellas we stop at one of our local cafes—La Terrazza ( second-most-appreciated Internet café)—for their plat du jour. Today’s offering is roasted chicken with pureed potatoes and squash. No one’s driving, although it doesn’t seem to be an issue in France, so CA and LFW enjoy a glass of the rouge. Just to show off, CA and I order one café gourmand to share three-ways.

And, at 1:30pm we’re at the bus stop just across from the boulangerie and on the 20-minute bus ride to Cannes. Standing-room-only works for us, and while it’s not a scenic journey it does give us a chance to mingle with the locals for some serious people watching. Our ride ends next to the RNCF terminal in Cannes, but not-to-fear as I’ve spotted a Galleries Lafayette from the bus window and we’re just a block or two off the main shopping district.

We spend the afternoon wandering through the shops and down to the sea and then to Cristal for a rejuvenating respite. This is the café with the world’s tiniest toilette, and we want to show it off. LFW has taken to photographing toilettes this trip. She thinks she might create a photo collage for her home…

I want to stay until dusk and see the Christmas lights, which hang over the streets and intersections, lit. Christmas in Cannes, doesn’t that sound lovely? We’ve already been to this year’s Christmas market, but this is the first day ever I’ve been in Cannes when all the shops and businesses are open. We were here in 2008 and now three times this trip, all on a Sunday.

We catch the 5:40pm #600 Grasse bus and are early enough to get seats together. We share our 4-square with a guy from Brisbane, visiting his parents in Mougins with his 15 and 18 year old sons. We have animated conversation, sharing travel suggestions and experiences and the trip seems short. #600 bus drops us just across from the boulangerie at about 6:00pm, in time to make our usual evening stop for a baguette.

I’ll cook stir-fry tonight, but first we slip into our early evening routine of opening a bottle of rosé and pulling out the cheeses. We’re back in time for Weakest Link, followed by Egg Heads, and the nightly Strictly Come Dancing update. We’ve really come to appreciate BBC—we get three channels and watching British news, game shows, entertainment, comedy, and farm shows has punctuated our evenings.

Before the evening ends, the three of us spend time sorting photos and sharing files—LFW has a 10:50am flight out of Nice in the morning. It’s back to reality for her, and we have just two more days until we fly to Paris.

I’m looking forward to Paris, but absolutely hate the thought of leaving Provence. Three weeks here has flown by. We’ve had plenty of time for day-trips, but maybe not enough time to just “be.” I’ve also loved just living here—doing chores, reading my latest book, and lingering. There’s a pervasive beauty and atmosphere that calms and enriches each moment for me. Living in a foreign language doesn’t frustrate me. I seem to get by with a tiny bit of French, a smile, and quite a bit of silence. Being here is a visual experience for me, and I love that. It’s rather satisfying to see and listen, rather than to always be speaking.

FRANCE: Day 18 - Nice, all day

Nice is our destination today, and to get a good start we skip our morning at the café and brew some dandy French press in the Villa. We’re headed this morning to the Marche Aux Fleurs. Surprisingly, the sky clears as we travel eastward. By the time we’ve parked and ascended the stairs to street level on Cour Saleya, the sun is out! Oh, glorious sun. We’ve missed you.

FRANCE: Day 16 - Antibes y Cap d'Antibes y Cannes

Sundays take some special planning when you’re vacationing on the Côte d’Azur. Most shops aren’t open, and the ones that are close early afternoon. While it’s a good day for long drives, we were in the car too long yesterday.

We make French press coffee in the villa this rainy morning, and soon decide to hit the market in Antibes and plan to arrive in Cannes for a late lunch and a stroll through the Christmas market.

FRANCE: Day 9 - Cannes y Mougins

We wake to a rainy Sunday in the South of France. We’ve planned a quiet day in Cannes and a trip to the Provençal Market, and after a bit of discussion we are on our way. CA has an umbrella, and I plan to buy one in Cannes. LG talked me out of my teal mini-brella before we left Bratislava.

We’re both half wet before long, but the market is covered and we wander about checking out all the vendors before buying Clementines and vegetables for stir fry—mushrooms, red pepper, and onions. Before leaving the market we buy a block of artisanal butter (demi-sel).

It’s still raining as we begin wandering the market streets and then along the Pantiero (marina). These boats are big, but there’re massive yachts across the harbor. I eventually buy a cheap pink umbrella in the 2€ shop and immediately appreciate the expenditure. Maybe not the umbrella I’d envisioned, but we’re both drier.

We decide to have lunch again this Sunday at La Piazza on Place Cornut Gentille, CA chooses the hot chevré salade and I get pricey with sole mernieure. My sole is mediocre, which is tragic for someone who’s not in love with fish on any day. I do enjoy the vegetables (all called légumes) and white rice that accompanies the sole. CA is very pleased with this salad.

We wander about a bit more after lunch--the rain has let up, but it is still a grey, cloudy day on the coast. When we enter the parking garage—P1 Palais—we find another brocante and spend a bit of time perusing the goods. Other than the silverware, I’ve found nothing of interest at any of the antique’s stalls this trip. And, the silverware is pricey—more than I’m willing to spend for something I really don’t need.

By the time we drive back to Club Mougins, the sun is out and we again get to appreciate the Maritime Alps on the horizon.

Some observation:
• Large cranes (the machinery variety) are ubiquitous. With all these steep terraced hillside neighborhoods, any renovation or construction necessitates the use of cranes. And, we remember our first visit to Paris and how platform cranes were used to move into and out of flats—through the large windows rather than up and around the narrow staircases.

• Sunday’s are not shopping days in France. Food markets and boulangerie-patisseries might be open until 12:00m, but everything closes in the afternoon. Sundays are family days.

• Based on our observations of the commercial areas in the cities and villages we’ve visited so far, clothes shopping is way down the ladder from food shopping. There are numerous culinary purveyors everywhere, and far fewer clothing or shoe stores. There is definitely an emphasis on food and a multitude of ways to procure it, while acquiring a great quantity of clothing doesn’t seem to be necessary. CA says the natives should be fatter. They aren’t. We are.