14 September 2016

Santa Fe, Day 3

Today, we headed to Tesuque for breakfast at Tesuque Village Market. Happily, Tesuque Market is just as rag-tag and unassuming in appearance as it's ever been. I've been to Santa Fe 6 times and except for one visit that was just a daytrip, I've always made sure to drive the 10 minutes north of Santa Fe to Tesuque. The food is outstanding, and they sell freshly-baked pies and pastries.

CA and I both choose the Farmer's Breakfast--eggs scrambled with tomatoes, fresh spinach, roasted garlic, and goat cheese; served with crispy, oven-roasted red potatoes. Very good.

I'm not sure we've ever been able to squeeze in three meals/day during any vacation. We definitely can't here. Each meal is so good and satisfying, I haven't even been craving sweets or chocolate. Twice, I've actually been in the candy aisle and walked away. Surreal.

We spend the afternoon walking Canyon Road, appreciating the Santa Fe architecture and the full-on artistic vibe that is Canyon Road. Every step, every gallery, courtyard, and shop exudes artistic talent. Santa Fe artists are serious artisans. Many of these galleries and shops have been here forever. Many I recognize from my first visit 18 years ago.

We wander to St. Francis Cathedral and after spending some time inside admiring the lovely stained glass and icons, I decide to walk my first-ever Labyrinth. We've visited Chartes and Roen cathedrals, but for whatever reason I never walked the Labyrinth. 

It was amazing. Really. I was the only person doing so and I really let myself into the present moments. And, I walked away with some vital insights. Life mirrors the Labyrinth--forward/double-back/forward/across/back/way back/forward/double-back/forward... 

After a bit of rest at the casita, and discussion regarding dinner, we dine at Il Vicino for wood oven pizza. I think I've eaten there at least once every visit, sometimes twice. It's casual; you place your order at the front counter. If the weather were different we'd eat on the terrace, but tonight it's cozier in the dining room.

-source of these 2 photos-

CA orders the #10 (with chicken added)--fresh basil pesto, mozzarella, tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, fresh basil. The crust is perfect; medium-thin, soft-centered, wood-oven baked. I ask for the #15, but as I'm deciding on a salad the counter guy points out that they offer a combo deal--small pizza of your choice along with a 1/2 entree salad, and beverage. Yep. That's for me.

My Fino pizza has chicken sausage, marinara, mozzarella, blended goat cheese, oven roasted tomatoes, and fresh oregano. A very delicious and appropriately-sized pizza leaves room for a frehly-prepared Isalata Cesare.

We cannot stop commenting on how good the pizza was. Memorable.

Tomorrow we drive back to Fort Collins for time again with family. We're going ice skating in Denver with JF, doing a bit of shopping, and preparing a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. Lots of Fun Kids time. Great memory building.

13 September 2016

Santa Fe, Part 2

We enjoyed the galleries after dark; window gazing.

Breakfast our second morning was at the Plaza Cafe, another perennial favorite--right on the Plaza, catty-corner from the Palace of the Govenors.

Huevos Divorciados. 2 eggs prepared to order on corn tortillas with Chipotle and Tomatillos Salsa. Served with Guacamole, Sour Cream, Beans, Hash Browns, and a Flour Tortilla. The coffee is good, too. Oh, and we were entertained, loudly, by charming mariachis.

More walking about...

Unwittingly, we were in town for the Fiesta of La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Aśis. The 340th year of the Fiesta.

We walked past this Santuario de Guadalupe a few times every day--between our hotel (Guadalupe Inn) on Agua Fria.

Along and around Agua Fria. 

We ate breakfast here our third morning. Our first visit, but not our last. 

Saturday market at the railroad yards. We bought our ristras here.

We bought our fire roasted chiles from him.

Beautiful tiles everywhere. 

We had a wonderful time in Santa Fe. My 7th visit. Looking forward to our next visit.

Oh, and this might have happened...

12 September 2016

Santa Fe, Part 1

We've never been to Santa Fe during chile roasting season, so CA made travel arrangements to spend 3 nights there, in conjunction with our wedding anniversary.

This is the Guadeloupe Inn on Agua Fria, near the old railroad yards and Tomasita's Restaurant--a perennial favorite.

Soon after we arrived, we walked a very short distance to Tomasita's. As always, the food, drinks, and sopapillas do not disappoint. A great start. We get a bit more gourmet as the days go on.

Breakfast our first morning is at Cafe Pascal, on the corner of Gallisteo and Water Streets. Breakfast here, and any meal, is a treat. And, for the first time since my first visit @1995, we are seated at the community table. My sister JA and I absolutely enjoyed our dinner that first trip/first night in Santa Fe. We exchanged travel stories and restaurant recommendations with our delightful dinner companions that long-ago night. CA and I have an equally great experience at breakfast, and the food is excellent.

Just walking around near the Plaza...

Our lovely cheese monger in Fort Collins recommended this cheese shop, The Cheese Monger. A really beautiful experience. Such talent; selection.

Walking to Tomasita's the first night, we passed Raaga, an Indian restaurant. For our second dinner, we sought recommendations--the obvious choice was the highly recommended restaurant. Raaga. Paddy Rawal's Indian menu intrigued us, and our waiter helped these neophytes make selections. The wine, too was perfect--light and bright.

Spinach Chaat. I'm going to try to make this very soon.

Tandoori Chicken.

Dessert. Rasmalai (sweet farmer's cheese dumplings).

St. Francis Cathedral. The Magic Hour; Le Heure Bleu.

Collected Works Bookstore and Coffeehouse on Galisteo Street, near the Plaza.

Eduardo Teodoro Valdez. Giving us Santa Fe history and tips on the best way of roasting green chiles. (Spray water on chiles occasionally, while roasting.)

From Sprouts, Santa Fe. Señor Valdez recommended these tamales.

Just a random view over the rooftops; panoramic beauty. The Jemez Mountains, probably. These compromise the southernmost tip of the Rockies. Could instead be the Sangre de Cristo Range.