19 December 2008

PARIS - The City of Light


Every night we fall into bed exhausted and determined to start tomorrow earlier. There just isn't enough time to take it all in. The sun hasn't been shining and there has been intermittent drizzly rain, but it just doesn't slow us down. Even, or especially on a cloudy winter day Paris is suffused with extraordinary light. Maybe because it reflects off the Seine? Of course, the Impressionists recognized it and captured it so well.

The Renaissance has umbrellas at the door for our use, and after losing mine the first day out it is one perk that we truly appreciate. There are other cool perks--the meltingly lovely chocolates at reception, the apothecary jars filled with gummies and licorices, the iced water with lemon or lime [that is waiting for us each early evening as we return to the hotel], the solid chocolate lollipops that are placed on our pillows each evening, the soaps and toiletries from Bulgari... We love it all. It is a pleasure being at this hotel.

We return multiple times to the BHV. CA enjoys his lunch with a rooftop view. I find soft wash cloths and hand towels in taupe, and grey-blue, and cream--shades of a winter landscape--to take to MP and DM in Bratislava. I spend too much on the perfect small steel spatula. And, find dainty aluminum bag clips that will remind me of Paris when I am in my own kitchen.

I look at knobs and hinges and fittings for doors and drawers and wish I could take them home. There are gorgeous fabrics and bed linens. Housewares are expensive... The quality is the best.

The BHV has gone upscale--designer labels abound in the sections of women's and children's clothing. The toy department is fantastic, and I indulge in one Moulin Roty creation for the new baby due in March.

We find several locations for Du Pareil au Même and finish our shopping for JA and LG. One afternoon on my own I find a location dedicated to just shoes and buy slippers for JA and KF, and pale pink dancing shoes for LG.

I revisit E. Dehillerin, but don't buy this time--baggage restrictions are a constant reality. I want the sleekly designed heat and fireproof oven mitts, but at 38€ each I will have to find something similar at home.

One afternoon I end up in an area that has multiple chef's shops and I indulge my fantasies, soon realizing that it is all available in the states and at better prices. Still, I have fun... And, I find beautiful decorator fabric--taking a card so that I can come back next time with measurements and plans.

I love the grocery stores--the neighborhood ones that carry the necessities that fill-in and round-out between market days. I find the chocolates that the Renaissance offers guests and buy one bag. Desperately wanting to buy 6, but keenly aware that even one kilo bag will challenge our packing. We want to buy coffee ground for the French press, but with our scanty language skills we are limited to looking at the labels and graphics and are never clear what is what.

We go to the Bodum store and buy insulated coffee mugs that incorporate the French press mechanism--one for MA and one for DM, and a smaller one for me.

I find Decathalon--a sporting goods store near La Madeline--where we shopped during our 1999 trip. I buy long sleeved t-shirts for the big boys and get a super-buy on a small duffel--it has become clear that I will need a carry-on to make it back to BA.

We find cafes when we are tired and/or hungry, or need a bathroom. A well-time café-crème can change your life, or at least your perspective, and give you energy for continued exploration.

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