Nice, Day 5

After a quiet morning with espresso in our flat, we walk down Giofreddo toward la Place Messena before deciding that we’ll go our separate ways for 2 hours, then meet at 1pm at Galleries Lafayette and walk to lunch at Marché aux Fleurs (actually a market that’s a combination of flowers, and fruits and vegetables; and tons of tourist traps) where there are many choices for dining. 

I explore and shop, buying little but taking note and sometimes photos of possibilities. There are a number of home shops interspersed with boutiques and shoe stores. I’m impressed by Nicetoile, an indoor mall opposite the big Monoprix on Avenue Jean Médecin.  

I love Monoprix! It’s the French Target crossbred with Home Goods. This is the place I’ll come tomorrow for groceries, etc. Since lunch is on the horizon and “home” is up 107 steps, I’m not buying today. 

Though, I find my favorite spices—Albert Ménès—Bonne Maman Cocolate Sablés (cookies), cantaloupe and prosciutto, Fever Tree tonic water, and many, many other interesting and delicious products. 

As I walk (early) to meet CA, I decide to go into Pylons—a fascinating shop I remember from our first trip to London in late 1999. Temptations, but I’ll think about options for a few days. 

We meet as planned, then it’s a short walk across Place Messena toward the Old City.

Today is wild with rugby fans everywhere decked-out in the colors of Portugal and Wales. The game isn’t until 5pm, so the revelers are ubiquitous—with not a few draped in their national flags. Apparently, Wales is known for their singing and we hear two different groups and renditions along our

way. 

We decide on La Storia and are seated immediately, although all of the restaurants are near capacity filled with Niçoise enjoying their weekend, rugby fans, and tourists like us. We’ve eaten here once before, but can’t remember details. This turns out to be a long and delicious meal. 

We decide to share a Niçoise Salad and 4-Cheese pizza (Mozzarella, Straciatella, Parmigiano, Fromage de Chèvre). Both are exceptional and we leave no crumbs!

Just as we finish our meal, the rain comes; a huge downpour that continues for over an hour, drawing-out déjuener to over 2 hours. No one leaves, so refugees from the storm cannot be seated. We order cafe crème and people-watch while chatting to nearby strangers. Pleasant and interesting. 

Palais de la Prefecture des Alpes Maritime.

The rain eases and as we walk away we realize that the beautiful building at the end of one of the market intersections is open to the public. It’s open just once a year and we’ve stumble into a free self-guided tour of the Palais de la Prefecture des Alpes Maritime. 

The interior is even more stunning than we can imagine. Having been here since 1610 with continuing renovations, the prefecture is now complete and updated to the point that nothing is left from the 17th century other than the site. Yet it’s definitely a welcome viewpoint of the historic beauty and grandeur that is France. 

As we walk back to the Airbnb, we’re ready to settle in to read and scroll and maybe nap. I cannot fathom eating another bite today, so I don’t!

Menton

We’ve decided to go to Menton today by train, but not before we have coffee. Our first stop is La P’tite Famile, a delightful cafe where we both order cafe crème. However, they don’t serve food, so we then walk to Le Metropolitan and enjoy another cafe crème and a chocolate croissant each. 

Then, it’s just a 6 block walk to Gare Nice Ville. We waste a lot of time and frustration trying to get a weekly train pass, but once we settle for a daily everything goes smoothly. 

I love the train systems in Europe—inexpensive and efficient. Before very long we’re in Menton, moving along with the crowd past lots of construction, but miraculously ending just where we want to be for lunch—seaside! Sitting comfortably along the Mediterranean, eating clams and mussels and frites. 

After a leisurely, almost dreamlike meal, we follow the shoreline and out on the pier for perfect views of Menton’s coastline and fishing boats on the horizon. 

The boats and yachts in the marina are outstanding, and we take time to read their many times clever names. “Envy.” “Gin in.” “Jenni.”

Can’t resist the shopping streets, and are pleased to find cheesy souvenir shops tucked in with those offering practical wares, local lemon treats, the ubiquitous gelato (YUM), and assorted 

We walk uphill in the beating sun to the train station, and before you know it we’re back in Nice. Stopping at the Utile, we add sweet grapes, pâté, and bottled water to the fresh baguette we bought at Paul just outside Gare Nice Ville. 

It’s been very hot today with intermittent breezes, so as soon as we’ve braved the 100 steps, we shower and collapse into the comforts of this Airbnb. 

Dinner consists of the above mentioned, along with the Compté cheese, small radishes and sea salt. Rhubarb jam and wonderful French butter we picked-up yesterday. 

I’ve set aside “Naughty in Nice” for the moment and am completely enjoying Lisa Jewell’s “None of This is True.”

Exploring

A good night’s sleep. I woke before the alarm and slipped-out quietly to La Niçoise, Boulangerie-Patisserie, just a few blocks away. Croissants—almond, chocolate, plain—and a baguette that even David Leibovitz would approve (very browned).

A quiet morning replicating our Colorado approach to daily life. Just before noon we go out and explore a few boutiques and Galeries Lafayette before beginning our search for lunch. La Messena is nearby and I remembered a delicious warm goat cheese salad from last time we were in Nice—quite possibly 2016. 

We find  reasonable facsimile of the salad I’m craving at Le Brasserie Magenta. CA decided on the Lemon Risotto with shrimp and is quite satisfied with it—risotto is a favorite, and he mentions that the lemon zest garnish is a welcome addition. 

We decide on gelato, but want to wander a bit before indulging. All journeys in Nice lead eventually to Promenade des Anglais, and the sparkling Mediterranean. It’s a hot and humid 77°, but there’s a welcome breeze keeping us content. 

We tend to analyze our food selections—in a good way—and compare and rate the preparation and presentation. And so, today’s Gelato from @amorino.nice doesn’t outshine Tuesday night’s pistachio-chocolate from @oui_gelateria. The chocolate may be darker and more flavorful, but the pistachio is rather flat. The texture isn’t as smooth, and unfortunately the cone is a bit stale. 

I’ve an odd cramping pain in my upper left thigh, so we return to our flat to read and recover. First, finding a close-by market for Compté cheese, @bonnemaman_fr Rhubarb jam, butter from Britany and tiny French radishes. The perfect lite dinner menu. 

I’ve just finished my third Patricia Cornwell procedural in the past month. I was put-off by a string of novels in the past, but happily she’s returned to her “Kay Scarpetta” roots. I’m now reading a Rhys Bowen mystery, “Naughty in Nice.” And why not?

CA is reading the first in a series of 5 police procedurals set in Nice. Author is #petermorfoot

Never Rule-Out the Impact of Humidity!

 Wednesday, 13-September-2023

Never rule-out the impact of humidity!

We slept-in as yesterday was an exhausting travel day—leaving Denver at 2pm MDT Monday and arriving in Nice around noon on Tuesday (4am MDT).

We’re staying at an Airbnb just beyond Massena with 100 steps between the street and our entrance. Strategic planning will be involved each day to avoid traversing that staircase too often.

As our neighborhood has an abundance of cafes and patisseries, we easily find cafe lattes and a pastry each to begin our day—almond croissant for CA and a Palmier for me. 

It’s 77° atm in Nice and we walk along the Baie des Anges to  Fleur aux Marché already perspiring profusely. My kicky skirt and linen button-up are decidedly smothering. The Wallaroo packable sun hat is unbearable.

 Just as we’ve entered the market I see linen sundresses for 35€ and immediately purchase and change into a light aqua green sleeveless tank swing dress. Cannot believe the difference!

We’re already aware that as fit as we are, at this age we need frequent breaks. There are an abundance of cafes in the market and we find one and stop for water and Coke Zeros with ice!

I’ve never been to the harbor, Porte de Nice Lympia, but find it’s a beautiful walk from the Flower Market, along the bay on our right with Colline du Château to the left. 

We eventually stop for lunch (2:45pm) just above the harbor at La Shounga 

(mojito bar tapas). Which, we chosen mostly because it’s getting the best breeze off the bay. 

We cool-off and relax with a Moscow Mule (me) and Rosé (CA) followed by a

Le Croque Madame (CA) and for me a

Chicken bowl: quinoa, avocat, poulet pané, chou rouge, carotte, oeuf. 

After our late lunch we walk back to the Flower Market and through the streets of Old Nice, identifying and relieving where we’d stayed in late 2016 and the restaurants we enjoyed. Eventually, stopping @oui_gelateria for a shared cup of pistachio and dark chocolate gelato. Absolutely lived-up to our memories. 

100+ steps later we’re happily in our flat on Rue Gioffredo with our feet up and our wanderlust satiated for today. 

No one even thinks about dinner. 

Nous Arrivon s á Nice

Our flight arrives around noon—2 hours late, but that’s just fine as we’ll now be able to go directly from the airport via tram and drop our bags and get the keys. 

Views in 2 directions. @airbnb Delighted. After a very long and uncertain travel day with 2 delayed flights—weather in Newark—actually boarding-deplaning—reboarding—delay for repairing a seat in 1st class. A run through terminal C in Newark with hopes of not missing the flight, to find flight to Nice delayed—twice. Overseas flight had many extra seats so the payoff was that we each got our own row for the 6 hour overnight flight.

Corinne meets us at No. 6 Rue Giofreddo and gets us settled into the flat. She’s very organized and has provided a lovely setting with tons of amenities along with Rosé and juice, cookies and thoughtful touches. 

Our first thoughts are about lunch, so we walk to Cours Saleya and Le Safari—a longtime favorite restaurant. The first one we ate at on our first visit to Nice and Provence. 

I’m thinking pizza and CA orders a Niçoise salad and a glass of Rosé.

We walk to the Promenade and pause to take in the magnificence of the beautiful Baie de Anges (Bay of Angels). As we head back to our flat, we walk the familiar streets of the Old City and share a cup of gelato at Oui—pistachio and chocolate. Still the very best Gelato ever.