Tuesday-Wednesday-Thursday

Today (Thursday), I'm relaxing in front of a sun-filled French door; allowing my soul to catch up with my body. I'm at rest; ignoring the magnetic draw of Paris. 

Look who came to visit. 

Tuesday.

We walked briskly to the local bus stop, taking us to the RER train 🚂 Marne-la-Vallée--Chessy. Amazingly there are blooming roses along our pathway. 

There are always buskers on the RER trains. Most claim to be Syrian refugees. Who knows? My solution is to give to one. There's no way to validate any claims, and the giving is more about keeping my heart open than the coins. 

Today we choose to walk along Canal Saint-Martin; and because the canal is underground from Bastille to Republique, we take time to explore the area around Bastille before taking the Metro to Republique. We walk along enjoying the canal, the iron bridges, the locks. Eventually, we run across Chez Prune, a recommended café. 

This café makes a point of being bedraggled, seedy. Very self-consciously appealing to local BOBOs (hipsters). The food is good, portions huge. While Chez Prune might be the definition of "a dive" it's very clean.

As it's a chilly cold day (I chose to leave my gloves back in my suitcase.), we take the Metro to Opera and tour Opera Garnier. There's been much reconstruction on the Opera in all the years we've visited, and it's about time we see inside. Amazing. Stunning. Beautiful. Unimaginable. I have no appropriate words. And, when we view the Main Auditorium, 4 performers are practicing a ballet--2 women and 2 (shirtless) men. The musculature! 

Wednesday. 

We get a later start and decide to exit the RER at Chatelet--right in the middle of Les Halles. When you leave the train you realize you are several stories underground. In fact all of the mall part of Les Halles is underground. The entire ground level scene is retail mania. We're not too interested in shopping, so we wind around the under construction Les Bourse and the backside of Norte Dame. Redevelopment and reconstruction have been going on in this area since 2010 and will continue for a few more years. 

We'd decided to go to the BHV for lunch at Le Kantine on 5éme. This particular carousel sits next to the Hôtel de Ville and across from the BHV. 

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The cafe is self-service, as is this fun wine dispenser. 

I told CA that I "needed" to visit Housewares, Hardware, and Stationery. And, though we milled about for some time, we hit every one of the hotspots. 

After purchasing a few stationary items, we decide there's still enough time to walk to E. Dehillrien, the lovely chef and restaurant supply shop that is a Paris Institution.

We accomplish our small mission and after a bit of looking about, we decide we're ready to take the train back to our villa, and enjoy a pub dinner on-site. They really do burgers well. We're here for the French food, but tonight a burger seems just right.

Thursday. 

We surprise ourselves and declare today a pajama day. Our bodies are tired. We've kept a busy pace so far. It turns into a great day to read, take walks, and stare out over the pretty views outside our French doors. 

My sunset view, not very different from my morning view (above). A very good day. 

By dinner time, CA has found a local restaurant that has an excellent reputation, so we set-off in search. First, a quick grocery store stop. 

Au Bon Petit Bailly is certainly unpretentious and the Food is delicious. CA shared some of his generous serving of goat cheese toasts. You can almost see the salad underneath. I'm making my goat cheese toasts exactly like these in the future. Hot crispy toast with gooey goat cheese. TDF. I ate some with the vegetable soup made from the chef's wife's garden. 

Furthering my exploration into the French love of Meringues... This example was covered with Citron ice cream, smothered in whipped cream, and drizzled with Raspberry sauce.

BHV

We discovered the BHV (Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville) during our first visit to Paris in December, 1999. I'd read about it, obscurely, in a Traveler's Tales book. It was originally established in the early 1850s and has continually operated since. 

While purchased by Galleries Lafayette in 1991, in 1999 it still retained its chaotic, mysterious collections of individual and slightly odd merchandise, mish-mashed in with the usual mundane stock in the various departments.

I fell in love with the stationary department, the basement hardware, and the fabrics! The culinary department begged to be explored. I spent whole days in the BHV during our first few trips to Paris. Our grandchildren scored one-of-a-kind (in the USA) clothing and toys. 

While the BHV has been outfitted and merchandised into a grand shopping experience, it still retains much of its charm--if just a bit under the surface. 

Just opposite the BHV is the stunning architecturally magnificent Hôtel de Ville. And, one of the many beautiful carousels in Paris. 

This visit coincides with Christmas so we're enjoying both the traditional and the unusual decorations. Clever use of snow skis (0ème). 

The gift wrapping overflows the Stationary Department on the 3ème. Lovely. 

Glitter paper!

I especially love to dine in Le Kantine on 5ème--a buffet TDF. Cleverly, the house wines are dispensed here... While dining, you can enjoy a view of the rooftops of Paris. 

There's a recent trend toward using Post-It notes as art. Here the word "CAISSE" for cashier is emphasized in white. 

One last thought: I, sincerely, told CA that I could just get a pillow and a duvet and move into the BHV. Meant it. It feeds my soul with all its glittering goodness. I just like to see and to touch everything. I don't even need to buy any more. I've already squirreled-away goodies and given plenty of gifts from previous visits. And, truthfully, TJMaxx and Home Goods are a much, much better deal. It's the ambience I want to roll-around in.

PARIS - The City of Light

Every night we fall into bed exhausted and determined to start tomorrow earlier. There just isn't enough time to take it all in. The sun hasn't been shining and there has been intermittent drizzly rain, but it just doesn't slow us down. Even, or especially on a cloudy winter day Paris is suffused with extraordinary light. Maybe because it reflects off the Seine? Of course, the Impressionists recognized it and captured it so well.

The Renaissance has umbrellas at the door for our use, and after losing mine the first day out it is one perk that we truly appreciate. There are other cool perks--the meltingly lovely chocolates at reception, the apothecary jars filled with gummies and licorices, the iced water with lemon or lime [that is waiting for us each early evening as we return to the hotel], the solid chocolate lollipops that are placed on our pillows each evening, the soaps and toiletries from Bulgari... We love it all. It is a pleasure being at this hotel.

We return multiple times to the BHV. CA enjoys his lunch with a rooftop view. I find soft wash cloths and hand towels in taupe, and grey-blue, and cream--shades of a winter landscape--to take to MP and DM in Bratislava. I spend too much on the perfect small steel spatula. And, find dainty aluminum bag clips that will remind me of Paris when I am in my own kitchen.

I look at knobs and hinges and fittings for doors and drawers and wish I could take them home. There are gorgeous fabrics and bed linens. Housewares are expensive... The quality is the best.

The BHV has gone upscale--designer labels abound in the sections of women's and children's clothing. The toy department is fantastic, and I indulge in one Moulin Roty creation for the new baby due in March.

We find several locations for Du Pareil au Même and finish our shopping for JA and LG. One afternoon on my own I find a location dedicated to just shoes and buy slippers for JA and KF, and pale pink dancing shoes for LG.

I revisit E. Dehillerin, but don't buy this time--baggage restrictions are a constant reality. I want the sleekly designed heat and fireproof oven mitts, but at 38€ each I will have to find something similar at home.

One afternoon I end up in an area that has multiple chef's shops and I indulge my fantasies, soon realizing that it is all available in the states and at better prices. Still, I have fun... And, I find beautiful decorator fabric--taking a card so that I can come back next time with measurements and plans.

I love the grocery stores--the neighborhood ones that carry the necessities that fill-in and round-out between market days. I find the chocolates that the Renaissance offers guests and buy one bag. Desperately wanting to buy 6, but keenly aware that even one kilo bag will challenge our packing. We want to buy coffee ground for the French press, but with our scanty language skills we are limited to looking at the labels and graphics and are never clear what is what.

We go to the Bodum store and buy insulated coffee mugs that incorporate the French press mechanism--one for MA and one for DM, and a smaller one for me.

I find Decathalon--a sporting goods store near La Madeline--where we shopped during our 1999 trip. I buy long sleeved t-shirts for the big boys and get a super-buy on a small duffel--it has become clear that I will need a carry-on to make it back to BA.

We find cafes when we are tired and/or hungry, or need a bathroom. A well-time café-crème can change your life, or at least your perspective, and give you energy for continued exploration.