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16 September 2023

Nice, Day 5

After a quiet morning with espresso in our flat, we walk down Giofreddo toward la Place Messena before deciding that we’ll go our separate ways for 2 hours, then meet at 1pm at Galleries Lafayette and walk to lunch at Marché aux Fleurs (actually a market that’s a combination of flowers, and fruits and vegetables; and tons of tourist traps) where there are many choices for dining. 

I explore and shop, buying little but taking note and sometimes photos of possibilities. There are a number of home shops interspersed with boutiques and shoe stores. I’m impressed by Nicetoile, an indoor mall opposite the big Monoprix on Avenue Jean Médecin.  




I love Monoprix! It’s the French Target crossbred with Home Goods. This is the place I’ll come tomorrow for groceries, etc. Since lunch is on the horizon and “home” is up 107 steps, I’m not buying today. 


Though, I find my favorite spices—Albert Ménès—Bonne Maman Cocolate Sablés (cookies), cantaloupe and prosciutto, Fever Tree tonic water, and many, many other interesting and delicious products. 


As I walk (early) to meet CA, I decide to go into Pylons—a fascinating shop I remember from our first trip to London in late 1999. Temptations, but I’ll think about options for a few days. 


We meet as planned, then it’s a short walk across Place Messena toward the Old City.


Today is wild with rugby fans everywhere decked-out in the colors of Portugal and Wales. The game isn’t until 5pm, so the revelers are ubiquitous—with not a few draped in their national flags. Apparently, Wales is known for their singing and we hear two different groups and renditions along our

way. 





We decide on La Storia and are seated immediately, although all of the restaurants are near capacity filled with Niçoise enjoying their weekend, rugby fans, and tourists like us. We’ve eaten here once before, but can’t remember details. This turns out to be a long and delicious meal. 


We decide to share a Niçoise Salad and 4-Cheese pizza (Mozzarella, Straciatella, Parmigiano, Fromage de Chèvre). Both are exceptional and we leave no crumbs!


Just as we finish our meal, the rain comes; a huge downpour that continues for over an hour, drawing-out déjuener to over 2 hours. No one leaves, so refugees from the storm cannot be seated. We order cafe crème and people-watch while chatting to nearby strangers. Pleasant and interesting. 



Palais de la Prefecture des Alpes Maritime.

The rain eases and as we walk away we realize that the beautiful building at the end of one of the market intersections is open to the public. It’s open just once a year and we’ve stumble into a free self-guided tour of the Palais de la Prefecture des Alpes Maritime. 












The interior is even more stunning than we can imagine. Having been here since 1610 with continuing renovations, the prefecture is now complete and updated to the point that nothing is left from the 17th century other than the site. Yet it’s definitely a welcome viewpoint of the historic beauty and grandeur that is France. 


As we walk back to the Airbnb, we’re ready to settle in to read and scroll and maybe nap. I cannot fathom eating another bite today, so I don’t!

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