Last Day in Nice

Last full day here. The 14 days had gone by so quickly. 

Mid-70s again and sunny, so hot and humid. CA is convalescing so we had a morning in, planning on trying a new Cours Saleya restaurant for lunch. 

It’s a Monday brocante day again, so I went down ahead of CA to browse the market before meeting him for lunch at Carmela. I found two tiny, cone-shaped ceramic vases,  hand-painted and very French. The vendor wrapped them in a pure white linen towel which I’m delighted to be take home. 

CA had been thinking about pasta for awhile, and  we both ordered the Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe (pasta with a creamy cheese sauce and black pepper sprinkled generously). I also ordered the fresh Tomato Tarte, Minute Tapenade (olive purée) to share. Good enough, but not special. 

When I leave to get the tram for Nicetoile (indoor mall) to buy another piece of luggage, CA walks out to the Promenade for a restorative time along the Mediterranean in the bright sunshine. 

My 3rd piece of Lipault luggage. A French brand I’d found at The Container Store. Much less expensive here. 

My task completed, I pick up a fresh baguette for dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast. We both spend the late afternoon and evening reading and resting for Part 2 of the European adventure. 

This and That, and Thai

The French love their pharmacies, and there’s

 one every few blocks on most streets.

CA had a cold and/ or allergies. It started yesterday and he’s worse today. So, as usual when we travel, we’re off to see a pharmacist first thing. These things usually happen on a Sunday in Europe when most every retailer is closed. Luckily, there are a couple of pharmacies in the area open today. 

He rested most of the day, but I’m went shopping for the extra suitcase I could have bet I would need. We traveled to France with just our carryons, and already they’re overflowing. 

Our flight to Vienna on Thursday is on a commuter airline-Eurowings—which allows you to pay for a second carryon. 

I’ve purchased dresses in Nice—a aqua linen sundress, a black and grey linen knee-length with short sleeves, and a rich brown-colored flowing cotton dress that can also be worn with jeans. Other than the oil painting, most everything is fairly small or flat, but those stack-up!

We breakfast again in the flat—leftover baguette with beurre et Rhubarb jam. The small Nespresso machine makes good coffee, and we’ve gotten coffee creme and Carte Noir espresso pods from the close by Epicerie du Vieux Nice.

We end up at the same pharmacy I was at on Friday—Pharmacies Anglo American. CA got cough medicine and an antihistamine, and headed back to the flat. 

Meandering along the shopping streets, I mostly window shopped. The luggage store at Nicetoile (indoor 3-story mall) is not open, so Google needs to update their site. I’m just across from the big Monoprix but this one doesn’t stock luggage. It’s still a good opportunity to buy a few necessities and treats. 

We’d decided to each find lunch on our own, so I chose the nearest cafe with outdoor seating. Definitely wanted something light and simple as we planned on going out somewhere in the Old City for dinner, so I ordered a Croque Madame for the second day in a row. 

The service was slow but it was such a breezy, pleasant day sitting outside and people watching that I absolutely did not mind it. And, after lunch, I decided on taking the tram, when I usually walk, to the Old City. It’s convenient and I was tired. 

Finally we’ll get to Le Banthai for dinner, as we’ve very much enjoyed the food in the past. CA cannot  eat at the restaurant for tonight as he’s still coughing, although he visited another pharmacies late afternoon for a stronger cough medicine. 

He walked with me the short distance and left me with his order for Chicken Pad Thai. I order Som Tum as a starter (Papaya Salad w/ lemons, finely julienned carrots, tomatoes, peanuts and fresh mint. Then, Chicken Green Curry with Sticky Rice, which is deliciously spicy. 

There was live music happening in this tiny Thai restaurant, from 7pm on—a guitar player and tiny French female singer. They were both quite good, and as usual I was wishing I understood more French. 

I’m quickly back in the flat, but I accumulated well-past 10,000 steps this day, and am definitely ready for a quiet evening in. 

Marché Libéation and Chagall

We had our “breakfast” in—baguette with Bonne Maman Rhubarb Jam. Definitely don’t intend to leave a dollop of that delicious jam behind. The coffee pods we bought made excellent espressos. 

Mid-morning we took the tram to Marché Libération, which is somewhat near the Chagall Museum. The market offers fresh and local flowers, fruits, vegetables, nuts and spices, and fish. We always love visiting markets when we travel. 

We wound through the streets and climbed the hills to the Chagall Museum,  then first had lunch at a cafe in the cool and quiet garden. Lunch was a Croque Madame for me, and for CA a delicious and unique Fried Chicken sandwich. 

 

We decided to walk back, as usual we took the long way. Mistakenly. But, we were able to enjoy the Mediterranean Sea and saw a sailboat regatta and watched a man building a cairn on the rocky shore. 

After we’d been back for a few hours, we go down the 57 stairs to Fenocchio for gelato, and walk a bit amongst the narrow, curving streets of the Old City. There’s always lots of action going on in this area until midnight, especially when the next rugby pairing of the World Cup 2023 is in Nice. 

Moving House

 

Ubered to our next Airbnb flawlessly this morning, then a short walk to Rue de La Poissonniers. Very comfortable and roomy  flat, with just 57 steps to the 3rd floor. 50 less than Rue Giofreddo. 

After catching-up with internet stuff, we walk outside to the daily marche where I buy an umbrella as rain is threatening again. 

We’ve decide to go again to La Storia for lunch. CA orders Risotto de La Fregola á la créme de Courgette Stracciatella et saumon fumé. (Pasta pearls (Fregola) instead of Arborio rice, with a cream sauce of Stracciatella cheese and zucchini; and Smoked Salmon.) I’m having the same Salade Niçoise I enjoyed on Sunday. 

After a long lunch, we stroll a bit along Cours Saleya before heading-off in different directions. CA is going to the train station to get information on transportation to St. Paul de Vence, while I discover new shopping streets and search a bit for an extra suitcase. Yes, it’ll be necessary as we traveled here with just a carryon each. 

People watching is one of the best entertainments we have here on the Côte d’Azur. While all of Europe is multi-national, with the World Cup 23 rugby matches happening in France and 5 games in Nice it’s quite evident that there’s a huge influx of fans in the mix. 

When we meet at No. 6, we decide again that dinner will not be necessary. 

We like this Airbnb very much, too. It’s in the midst of the old City, very close to Marche aux Fleurs, and a vibrant area with an amazing number of restaurants. 

* * *

I’ve always loved this storefront—an umbrella shop of the past. My new umbrella looks quite similar to the top photo here

Another Rainy Day in Nice

Lycée Masséna

Rainy day, mostly drizzle. We didn’t yet have an umbrella, but based on past and present conditions, buying one had become a necessity. 

As we walk towards the Old Cty, we always pass by Lycée Maséna (local public high school). It’s a beautiful complex, with inlays of tiles around the windows and along the roofline. 

We went to Marché aux Fleurs as Monday is the antiques market. It’s fun to look around.  We bought a few small items before a thunderstorm threatened, so we ducked into Le Safari early—before noon. 

We weren’t ready for lunch, but of course needed to “buy” our seat, and CA suggested Kir. Which was quite pleasant. We sipped, slowly watching the deluge of rain and people seeking shelter. 

We eventually ordered lunch—an onion pizza with anchovies to share. But, “oignon” sounded like “Thon,” the French word for Tuna, so that’s what we got! Not bad. Then, for redemption, we ordered a Tarte Tatin (apple tart) to share. That was just so-so but was served with great vanilla ice cream. 

The skies had cleared and we wandered the market some more—buying an oil painting from 1949 (my birth year) of a fountain in St. Paul de Vence. 

Sunday in Nice

Needed a slow morning and by-chance slept in until after 10:00. We only have WiFi at the Airbnb, so we fall into lazing away a couple of hours and catching up online. 

I discovered the Nespresso-type coffeemaker isn’t piercing the capsules, but manage a DIY piercing that yields a decent cafe, but CA decides to take a pass. 

We eventually decide to have lunch in the Old City, choosing a brasserie on the street below the flat on Rue de Marché that we stayed in in December 2016. L’Ecurie translates as “stable,” and you can just about envision. 

Prix Fixe: 3 Courses

Entrée

Daurade (Sea Bream) 

Crème Brûlée 

Linguine Bolognese 

CA orders a 3 course prix fixe menu

and I opt for Linguine Bolognese—a safe choice, but also a favorite. CA shares a bit of his first course, and the waiter brings two spoons with the Crème Brûlée. 

After déjeuner, we walk through the closed market to Rue du Poissionaire to locate the Airbnb we move to on Thursday. Luckily, it’s close by Safari and La St🫒ia. And, between a Macron shop and a Gelato place. Can’t go wrong!

Walked to the Promenade and sat by the glistening ocean for awhile, the CA went to find a Rugby World Cup France 🇫🇷 2023 t-shirt, his one souvenir, and I wandered the shops on Rue Jean-Médicin. 

The best Monoprix is there, so I bought Burrata, Prosciutto, tomatoes, Canteloupe, Comté, Butter, and a multi-grain Naguette to add to the amazing Olive mixture we bought at the Flower Market earlier in the day. 

A quiet evening with dinner in—8,800 steps today ça suffit. 

Nice, Day 5

After a quiet morning with espresso in our flat, we walk down Giofreddo toward la Place Messena before deciding that we’ll go our separate ways for 2 hours, then meet at 1pm at Galleries Lafayette and walk to lunch at Marché aux Fleurs (actually a market that’s a combination of flowers, and fruits and vegetables; and tons of tourist traps) where there are many choices for dining. 

I explore and shop, buying little but taking note and sometimes photos of possibilities. There are a number of home shops interspersed with boutiques and shoe stores. I’m impressed by Nicetoile, an indoor mall opposite the big Monoprix on Avenue Jean Médecin.  

I love Monoprix! It’s the French Target crossbred with Home Goods. This is the place I’ll come tomorrow for groceries, etc. Since lunch is on the horizon and “home” is up 107 steps, I’m not buying today. 

Though, I find my favorite spices—Albert Ménès—Bonne Maman Cocolate Sablés (cookies), cantaloupe and prosciutto, Fever Tree tonic water, and many, many other interesting and delicious products. 

As I walk (early) to meet CA, I decide to go into Pylons—a fascinating shop I remember from our first trip to London in late 1999. Temptations, but I’ll think about options for a few days. 

We meet as planned, then it’s a short walk across Place Messena toward the Old City.

Today is wild with rugby fans everywhere decked-out in the colors of Portugal and Wales. The game isn’t until 5pm, so the revelers are ubiquitous—with not a few draped in their national flags. Apparently, Wales is known for their singing and we hear two different groups and renditions along our

way. 

We decide on La Storia and are seated immediately, although all of the restaurants are near capacity filled with Niçoise enjoying their weekend, rugby fans, and tourists like us. We’ve eaten here once before, but can’t remember details. This turns out to be a long and delicious meal. 

We decide to share a Niçoise Salad and 4-Cheese pizza (Mozzarella, Straciatella, Parmigiano, Fromage de Chèvre). Both are exceptional and we leave no crumbs!

Just as we finish our meal, the rain comes; a huge downpour that continues for over an hour, drawing-out déjuener to over 2 hours. No one leaves, so refugees from the storm cannot be seated. We order cafe crème and people-watch while chatting to nearby strangers. Pleasant and interesting. 

Palais de la Prefecture des Alpes Maritime.

The rain eases and as we walk away we realize that the beautiful building at the end of one of the market intersections is open to the public. It’s open just once a year and we’ve stumble into a free self-guided tour of the Palais de la Prefecture des Alpes Maritime. 

The interior is even more stunning than we can imagine. Having been here since 1610 with continuing renovations, the prefecture is now complete and updated to the point that nothing is left from the 17th century other than the site. Yet it’s definitely a welcome viewpoint of the historic beauty and grandeur that is France. 

As we walk back to the Airbnb, we’re ready to settle in to read and scroll and maybe nap. I cannot fathom eating another bite today, so I don’t!