SPRING

New York Times

International Herald Tribune

A special dinner tonight. CA has booked reservations well in advance for Spring, a newly-discovered 16-seat restaurant run by American Chef Daniel Rose, who has come to Paris by way of Wilmette, IL. He's receiving increasingly positive and frequent reviews on this Montmarte location, and in early February 2009 will close for a short time and reopen in the 1st arrondisement. A huge step up, but he will keep it small, only increasing the seating to 20, but adding a wine bar and a larger kitchen.

Daniel does the Charlie Trotter thing--there is no menu, you eat what he decides to cook based on what he has discovered at the market or is in the mood to prepare. There's only one seating each night so the meal is not just a meal but three hours of entertainment as well, since the kitchen is open to the dining room.

This venue has the feel of being in someone's home as you watch Daniel and his co-chef and current love, Marie, prepare each course. As you'd do when entertaining at home, Daniel from time-to-time circulates among his guests for a bit of conversation, but soon returns to the kitchen where he and Marie work in a synchronized rhythm.

It seems there are some regulars here tonight because at times after pouring wine for a table, Daniel casually pours a bit for himself, all the while steadily conversing in French--his second language. And, at times Daniel disappears down a trap door located in the middle of the small kitchen's floor for some ingredient, or another bottle of wine.

The atmosphere is fun, but the food is what draws people in and keeps them coming back. Reservations take months to attain, not days or weeks. Everything is prepared with care and creativity. The wonderful baguettes are from a local boulangerie, a few doors away. Daniel takes special interest in the wine choices and ours is a delicious, medium-bodied red from Corsica.

It's a wonderful evening. If you get a chance make a reservation at Spring, but plan several months in advance. And, Bon Appétit!