DISCOVERING PROVENCE, part 5 or Aix is X

Aix is pronounced“X”...

I am the first up this morning and from our terrace there are still the twinkling lights of night as the sunrise falls softly over the mountain tops and valleys of Mougins and Grasse. The air is brisk but dry and there is the promise of sunshine. CA decides to dress quickly and join me on a walk into the village to the boulangerie for some real coffee—Illy this time. We buy a mushroom quiche, two pamliers, and an almond sable. We carry back an espresso for SN1 as SN2 enjoys tea.

Fortified, we head for the A8 and 25€40 in tolls [round trip] to Aix-en-Provence. Forever I have been intrigued by Provence, and almost forever I have wanted to visit Aix-en-Provence. I mean, who can resist a French city with such an interesting name.

Everyone who talks about Aix talks about the market, and that is today’s main attraction. The market extends from the Place de Verdun along the Place des Prêcheurs to the Hotel d’Ville. Every product’s origination is noted, and most are from Aix. We are offered artisanal cheese and a wide variety of sausage. We taste a lovely, unfiltered extra-virgin olive oil and delicious €60 for 100g fois gras. In addition to food and flowers, there are small antiques and cheaply-made imported textiles and clothing. We find a round Provençal tablecloth made in Avignon and look forward to entertaining at home with Mediterranean and Provençal recipes.

We stop in a boulangerie for directions to a suitable café. Mademoiselle speaks little English and I speak little French, but she makes herself understood and we wander deeper into the old city to find a plaza lined with restaurants and cafes. The plat du jour is rib eye steak with mushroom sauce and yummy pomme frites. I choose a morel omelet with a salad of mesclun with vinaigrette. Espresso is the grand finale and it is time we meander back through the winding, cobbled streets to the car.

A quick stop at Champion in Mougins for provisions, then two baguettes from our local boulangerie and we are home and ready to nibble and reflect, satisfied with our day. Tomorrow we will search out a few wineries and revisit Nice. Maybe San Remo in Italy on Thursday…

Bonne nuit.